India’s AMA Herbal Group aims to “redefine the landscape of indigo dyeing” with a new alternative to synthetic liquid indigo.
The natural dye company launched Bio Indigo PReR, a biochemically modified pre-reduced natural indigo in liquid form. The indigo is a sustainable and cost-effective solution to conventional indigo’s chemical synthesis process and extensive water consumption.
Whereas synthetic indigo production involves the use of hazardous chemicals, solvents and a hydrogenation process that poses potential health risks to workers and surrounding communities, Yawer Ali Shah, founder and CEO of AMA Herbal Group, said natural indigo production relies on simpler and safer extraction and fermentation processes, reducing exposure to harmful substances.
To achieve Bio Indigo PReR, Shah explained how natural indigo leaves are placed in a water-filled fermentation tank or vat for a process that allows the precursor molecule indican to be released from the plant cells. Indican is a glucoside that can be hydrolyzed to form the soluble indoxyl, he said. Specific strains of bacteria and fungi are then added to this soluble slurry. After the required reduction of the solution, biostabilizers are added to keep it in reduced form.
Benefits of Bio Indigo include reducing energy consumption, CO2 emission reductions, landfill savings and economic opportunities for farmers. “Natural indigo production creates job opportunities for farmers in several countries where the cultivation of indigo-rich plants and traditional dyeing techniques are practiced. Some of these countries include India, Bangladesh and Japan and it can be expanded to other countries as well,” Shah said.
Bio Indigo is compatible with existing systems, ensuring a seamless transition in production. It is also easy for logistics because it does not require airtight packing.
The cost of fabrics dyed with Bio Indigo is 15-20 percent more compared to fabrics dyed with liquid synthetic indigo, but Shah said it is “not much when other environmental benefits are considered.”
“In an era where sustainability is paramount, Bio Indigo PReR represents a groundbreaking innovation that aligns with the global movement towards environmentally responsible practices in the textile industry. By offering a viable alternative to conventional indigo dyeing methods, we are paving the way for a more sustainable future while preserving the rich heritage of natural indigo,” he said.